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NEW YORK, United States — The sharp tailoring for which Paula Gerbase has made her name at 1205 was dryly lyrical this season. Playing with deceptive fabrics — synthetics that have the feel of natural materials, and vice versa — and asymmetric cutting and folding, Gerbase delivered a strong line-up of dynamic separates for women whose idea of style is absolutely fuss-free. Not an ounce of embellishment or decoration was stuck to her impeccable tailoring, yet the ode to refined, streamlined urban wear took a few unexpected turns. Woven cotton Afghan slippers and shaggy sheepskin skirts and coats, in particular, provided a raw, animal feel. This made for some welcome tension in a show that was, otherwise, all about twisted minimalism.




