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PARIS, France — This season saw designer’s responses to the shifting global political climate dominate the runways. From pussy powered protests to protectionism and paeans to multiculturalism, fashion is finding its voice in a brave — and scary — new world. BoF brings you the Top 10 shows of the Autumn/Winter 2017 season.
1. Balenciaga — designed by Demna Gvasalia, PFW
Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
There will probably always be those who attribute cynicism to Demna Gvasalia’s appropriations, but what was consolidated in this collection was a persuasive passion for what he does.
2. Calvin Klein — designed by Raf Simons, NYFW
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Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
With this debut collection, Raf Simons pulled off a dazzling balancing act that synthesised flesh and spirit for a new age — with an outsider sensibility.
3. Prada — designed by Miuccia Prada, MFW
Prada Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Miuccia Prada has gone back to the well where her label was once at its strongest: surreal, sexy, serious and, for all her uncertainty, utterly alluring.
4. Marc Jacobs – designed by Marc Jacobs, NYFW
Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
It was a genuine fashion moment, part celebration, part elegy. Marc Jacobs stands alone in New York in providing that depth of frisson.
5. Gucci — designed by Alessandro Michele, MFW
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
There were a million bits and pieces in the Gucci show, some extremely beautiful, some ludicrous, and some a startling, provocative marriage of both.
6. Dries Van Noten — designed by Dries Van Noten, PFW
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Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Dries Van Noten’s 100th show distilled the style that won him hearts and minds decades ago.
7. Alexander McQueen — designed by Sarah Burton, PFW
Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Sarah Burton's masterful embroideries have never felt quite so in tune with the soul of the collection — one of the most unforgettable of the season.
8. Erdem — designed by Erdem Moralıoğlu, LFW
Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Erdem did a wonderful job of communicating the unknowability at the heart of the collection. Even the colour palette was mysterious, with strange, saturated violets and mustards dominating.
9. Undercover – designed by Jun Takahashi, PFW
Undercover Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Jun Takahashi is a cultural archeologist almost without equal. His latest Undercover collection was sublime.
10. Loewe – designed by Jonathan Anderson, PFW
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Loewe Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
Although the collection missed the antic charm of the men’s presentation in January, there was more than enough here to take to market.