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MILAN, Italy — Ermanno Scervino is taking strides when it comes to evolving the image of his eponymous brand. What was once a temple of ladylike styles is now increasingly becoming a wider, contemporary offer. At the core is Scervino's forte, which is an unmistakably Italian, or rather Florentine, savoir faire. His pieces are lovingly and painstakingly crafted in the company's ateliers, using the finest silks, wools and leathers.
A whiff of lingerie was a defining trait, together with a pervading softness. A propos, the slipdress was the pièce de résistance in today's show, draped this way and that and proposed in painterly flower prints. If you think the goings got predictably saccarine, you are wrong. The collection actually was all about contrasts; the classic ones: hard versus soft, and masculine versus feminine. The tailored tuxedos were particularly supple, but best were a series of leather jackets worn with mannish baby blue shirts and slinky skirts.
Scervino should probably have made do without the Balenciaga-ish mega duvets, but then again the duvet is core business for the house. All in all, it was a very good outing, proof that even super-classic Italian brands can evolve intelligently.
