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MILAN, Italy — Guillaume Meilland, the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo's menswear, is a calm young man with a piercing, determined gaze. His work for the Florentine house is exactly the same. It looks apparently normal, probably even boring, but it has hidden strength.
His choice of muted colors and dry, fluid fabrics — as well as his proclivity for relaxed yet precise shapes — show vision and concision, with remarkable effortlessness and not a trace of egomania. This was Meilland's second collection for Ferragamo and the evolution from the debut, which was probably way too somber, was apparent.
The designer has found his place in the Ferragamo world — and a place for his Ferragamo man in the wider world beyond the house. He is a man who does not scream fashion, nor does he want to. He is classic, in a resolutely contemporary way. He is understated yet lively.
The Riviera inspiration translated into an idea of gentle insouciance, best expressed in the slouchy jacket and trousers suited for urban expeditions or relaxing leisure time. It was all very calm, very elegant and, yes, decidedly normal. Whoever said that good fashion must be strange?