Poetic Brutalism at Damir Doma

MILAN, Italy — Damir Doma chose to present his men's and women's collections together. The decision worked to his own advantage, making the message — poetic brutalism — strong, poignant and immediately felt. It's a matter of coherence. Doma knows how to handle a progressive show format. For a start there is the androgynous aesthetic: Doma has been an early champion of gender fluid styles. Second, there is the tribal mentality which comes attached to his work, focused on line and texture. In this sense, mixing men and women is natural to him. Yesterday's show saw Doma upping the ante on underground grittiness while not forsaking a certain gentleness. The friction of such opposites felt vital and primal, while the oversized shapes had both ease and precision. So far, this was Doma's best show since his arrival in Milan one year ago. It feels good to have such a personal voice added to the local fashion conversation.