Paul Smith's Aquatic Japonisme

PARIS, France — A tuna print neck tie? That was the first takeaway from Paul Smith's latest mixed men's and women's runway show — a comical device that Smith quickly segued into a Spring 2018 collection that skewed more floral than fishy. With Smith being a predominantly menswear business, this collection (despite some pretty, printed tea dresses) was heavy on light summer separates — jackets wide, trousers pleated, collars flat and 1950's — for boys and girls alike. Many of them came awash with tropical jungles and inky night skies populated with cosmic ephemera — the saturation of which amped up the humble Hawaiian shirt or jacquard knit with a welcome psychedelia. Other blooming embellishments held a vague, aquatic Japonisme: carp and coral mingled with orchid prints for a brash effect when layered with eye-watering, jewel-toned tailoring.