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MILAN, Italy — In Milan, romanticism isn't just about frills and bows, thank goodness. Images of Blitz kids and visceral artists such as Marina Abramovich — in her 1970s heyday — and Yoko Ono were pinned to the Costume National moodboard backstage at the brand's show today. It was an interesting clash of inspirations, which designer Ennio Capasa summed up with the title 'Romantic Wave,' addressing his heartfelt desire to look at the future with a poetic gaze.
Keeping his trademark edgy, angular cuts, mixing androgyny with riffs of a softer, sparkly femininity, Capasa delivered one of his strongest collections in recent memory. After a few weak seasons, the designer's very own brand of cool — sensual and tailored, never too confrontational — was back on track. It made for an unremitting line-up of multi-layered coats and floaty dresses, slouchy pantsuits and street-savvy pajamas. Costume National's edginess got a soft, but never sugary spin and it felt fresh.
