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MILAN, Italy — There is comfort in repetition, that's for sure. There is also the persistent risk of boredom. This is the problem Thom Browne constantly faces in his shows: a prankster at heart, he likes to focus on a single concept each time and hammer the audience ad nauseam. You either like it, or hate it.
In a season particularly focused on realism, such conceptual theatrics seem sometimes a bit pointless. Alpinism and mountain expeditions were the topic at Moncler Gamme Bleu today. Think boots, ropes and snap hooks, and then more ropes and more hooks. All of it splashed onto and on top of the shrunken, tailored silhouettes Browne is known for. Luckily, this time 'round it was not just gimmicks and absurd show pieces. The quilted jackets and rubber macs looked appealing way past the catwalk. Even some of the rope 'n hook pieces had potential. The format, however, needs to be rethought, as it has lost momentum.