Masculine/Feminine Exploration At Haider Ackermann

PARIS, France — As far as soundtracks go, Max Richter's revamp of Vivaldi (specifically Spring from The Four Seasons) was a typical Haider Ackermann move. Subverted beauty — it's been his calling card forever. But maybe not anymore. Now he also has a new outlet at Berluti, an opportunity whose specific requirements will surely impact on the way he approaches his own brand.

That wasn’t anything Ackermann wanted to talk about on Saturday morning, but the signs were already there, even if Berluti is menswear, and he was showing his latest collection for women. Emphasise that last word. Ackermann loves his women as warriors (so said one of his t-shirts, Silent Soldier) and there were plenty of his skinny weaponised pants and tiny fitted jackets on the catwalk on Saturday, some of them newly reconfigured in leopard spot lame for a frisson of glam rock.

But for the first time, there were also some absolutely beautiful goddess gowns, almost as though Ackermann can now release his inner woman, because Berluti is going to satiate the menswear traditionalist in his soul.

Or not, as the case may be. Because he also found a potent new strain of masculine/feminine to explore with his latest outing under his own label.  A metallic chartreuse pantsuit? Now that was glam. There is, however, always darkness on the edge of town with Ackermann. It's the spice in his sensual stew. Here, there were coats and jackets that looked like they'd survived a shootout in Medellin. Every blood splatter was artfully edged in gold, not so much subverted beauty as beautified subversion. It was a massively decadent flourish — and, in that, it was only Ackermann at his most arty and arch.