Skip to main content
BoF Logo

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Infinite Maximalism at Balmain

Deliberately tacky, and borderline vulgar, Balmain was also very enjoyable: a visually ebullient parade of peacocks in various states of theatrical dress up.
Balmain Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

PARIS, France —  The Balmain men, all unbridled decoration, flash 'n cash and burgeoning physical presence, is utterly unapologetic. His no-holds-barred approach to maximalism becomes if possible more and more maximalist as times passes. Like it or not, creative director Olivier Rousteing has a vision, and goes for it all the way down, without feeling any need to edit himself down — in fact, today's show was literally infinite.

Deliberately tacky, and borderline vulgar, it was also very enjoyable: a visually ebullient parade of peococks in various states of theatrical dress up. It started with slouchy knitwear and ended up with densely embroidered tunics. Overdressed to the brim, the Balmain posse looked once again like a tribe of retired rockstars from another era — the 1980s — because Rousteing has a thing for the period — the style, the music, the excess. Is there room for such a take on glamour today? Probably. Anyway, according to Freddie Mercury on the soundtrack, the show must go on.

In This Article

© 2026 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

Clash of the New Titans

Haider at Tom Ford, Pieter at Alaïa, comings and goings in fashion, and Nico at Courrèges coming up fast, all of it leading to a day of dynamic fashion in Paris, writes Tim Blanks.


Paris Day Three: Variables and Constants

One of the busiest days of Paris fashion week featured a hello at Balmain, a goodbye at Alaïa and variations on signature visions at Courrèges, The Row, Dries Van Noten and Tom Ford.


view more
Latest News & Analysis
Unrivalled, world class journalism across fashion, luxury and beauty industries.

Estée Lauder’s Surprise Acquisition, Explained

The American cosmetic giant’s buyout of Ayurvedic beauty line Forest Essentials came as a surprise. By picking an under-the-radar brand it knows well, the company can show that it’s still in the M&A game without needing to outbid rivals.


VIEW MORE
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON