In London, Fuss-Free Fashion

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While the new, fey masculinity, epitomised by

's

, continues to make headlines in menswear, its inverse, which could be called butch femininity, is hardly new. In the 1980s, and during the suffragette movement long before,

helped pave this well-travelled road. Yet there is a surprising amount of mannish

for bare-faced, stompy-footed ladies on the London runways this season.

has always been there. She has a distinctive take on the theme: sophisticated yet rustic and usually poetic, with whiffs of the English countryside all around. Think tweeds, sturdy brogues and a general emphasis on texture and matte surfaces. The collection she presented today was just another chapter of the story. Blazers got shorter and boxier, and so did trousers, while flat bowties — halfway between schoolboy and dandy — appeared prominently, even with rather dowdy sack-dresses. All in all, the collection was respectable and did not lack for covetable pieces — the coats and duffel coats, in particular, looked fresh. But, overall, the offering was a tad too repetitive and lacked the poetry that normally elevates her work.

Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016 | Source: InDigital.tv

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The sharp tailoring for which Paula Gerbase has made her name at 1205 was dryly lyrical this season. Playing with deceptive fabrics — synthetics that have the feel of natural materials, and vice versa — and asymmetric cutting and folding, Gerbase delivered a strong line-up of dynamic separates for women whose idea of style is absolutely fuss-free. Not an ounce of embellishment or decoration was stuck to her impeccable tailoring, yet the ode to refined, streamlined urban wear took a few unexpected turns. Woven cotton Afghan slippers and shaggy sheepskin skirts and coats, in particular, provided a raw, animal feel. This made for some welcome tension in a show that was, otherwise, all about twisted minimalism.

1205 Autumn/Winter 2016 | Source: InDigital.tv

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Female strength, embodied by pioneers exposed to extreme weather conditions, was the theme at

. In the show notes, vice president of women's design Delphine Ninou referenced protection, warmth and comfort. But don't be fooled: her way of grappling with these topics always put the female form first. Ninou's pioneer is, evidently, of the sexy and commanding variety, even when swathed in an intarsia cape. The colour blocking was particularly appealing, while a Mongolian lamb coat made quite a statement.

Belstaff Autumn/Winter 2016 | Source: InDigital.tv

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For full coverage, visit BoF Fashion Week.