Gabriela Hearst Proves She's Her Own Woman

NEW YORK, United States — Gabriela Hearst's clothes are very expensive, and it's easy to lump her label in with the contingent of female-led American brands that turn out well-made and elegant — if not particularly distinctive — minimalist fashion.

Hearst, however, has managed to set herself apart by bringing a certain warmth to her work. Perhaps it is her passion for wool, which she produces at her own ranch in Uruguay. Her long-term goal, not yet realised, is to source the cloth for her suiting from the sheep on the farm. (Cashmere megabrand Loro Piana is helping with that.)

It's no surprise, then, that Hearst worked wool into nearly every single look in her autumn collection, from a gorgeous double-breasted cashmere coat with a princess-seamed back to the extra-fine merino wool catsuit she unexpectedly styled under a one-shoulder, satin crepe gown.

This season's novelty additions — herringbone black velvet used best for a deep-v cocktail dress, clear heels on boots packed with turquoise and ivory stones — indicated that Hearst is very much her own woman, determined not to be easily categorised.