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NEW YORK, United States — Australian designer Dion Lee has made his name 'down under' for razor sharp cutting and a silky hand with summer flou, a fact that sometimes lends a sexed-up, provocative edge to his clothes. Spring 2017 however put thankful pause to the figure-hugging, slashed satin gowns that had crept into his cerebral oeuvre of late.
Instead, he focused on reconstructing clever iterations on the trench coat, the tunic and the slip dress all with an elevated, athletic ease provided by tweaked proportions (a giant belt, a cape back or a shorn-off shoulder, for example). Inspired by refracted light, his stripped and laminated shifts appeared both precious and weightless. They’ll hold up as serious eveningwear options more so than the sequined separates that closed the show.
