Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Junichi Abe was after something imperfect this season. Backstage, he used the adjective "dirty" as a way to describe the zest for imbalance which was central to the collection: a controlled but chaotic clash of patterns and textures over classic styles in odd proportions. Of course, dirty it was not, but this was certainly different from the Kolor we are used to. Actually, it looked like the juxtapositon of elements which is essential to the brand's vocabulary got amplified, exaggerated and even distorted. Details multiplied on each piece, sometimes overshadowing function in favor of decoration. Did it work? Only in part. For sure it looked lively and energetic, yet sometimes it lacked the claity Abe is so good at. Nobody can do complicated but simple like him. We miss that.
