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MILAN, Italy — When even a master of restraint like Giorgio Armani invokes, via his show notes, the balmy virtues of contrasts and clashes, you know the fashion tides have changed. The new mantra applies to Emporio Armani, of course, which has always been a freer, dare we say edgier expression of the Armani ethos.
Nonetheless, it's a quantum leap. So far, the Milan shows have been promoting an aesthetic of chaos and mash-up. Armani embraces multiplicity and contradictions, his own way. Do not expext an overdose of decorations or overt historical references, Mr Armani is firmly averse to that, as he stated backstage after the show. His aim, quite simply, is to create a way of dressing that is in synch with the times, and that is not too costumey. Translated into Armani language it meant controlled haphazardness and a stress on bold, hyper-visual prints.
The collection opened in graphic black and white and went on through plastic, PVC and other artificial fabrications. Vaguely pop motifs followed, and after that it was sequins. There was a lot going on on the catwalk, and at times it was a bit too much to digest. The long skirts drew a charmingly demure silhouette, while oversized duvets had a certain nonchalance. The message, however, got a bit diluted in the variety of the offer. Clashes and contrasts are way more effective when they are edited severely.
