Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — The Julien David collections are usually quite playful. Definitely odd, yet playful. Not this season. At least, not blatantly. Mr David was in a somber mood, give or take the round lace collars that topped a quite a few outfits — for him and for her — as this was a mixed show. Urged backstage, David explained that the season's theme was a merging of hiking, military and boy scout. Where do these elements collide? The functionality of the uniform, and also its sombreness. Apropos, the collection was functional — multiple pockets everywhere, boots, olive drab — sombre and decidedly repetitive. A stricter edit would have helped. A bit more playfulness, too. There were jolly patches here and there, but that was not enough.
