At Nina Ricci, Sensuality and Sin

PARIS, France — The moment guests set foot in the Salon d'Honneur of the Grand Palais for today's Nina Ricci show, it was immediately clear that shine was this season's byword. A narrow, patent, dark red catwalk coiled its way around the dimly lit room, the path doubled by spotlights piercing the foggy darkness. The collection was, well, quite shiny indeed.

Now in his second season as creative director of the revered French house, Guillaume Henry picked up from the good bits of his previous effort — notably a red sequined dress — and went full blown sensual, sinful even, but chic in a quintessentially French way. It was a smart move: the cold stare that made his debut feel a tad dry was gone in a second.

There was something perverse going on this time: a chic role-play between a young French lady and her maid, exchanging their utterly shiny wardrobes with each other. Satin or patent ostrich dresses were cut into short aprons, while feathers — the kind that make you think of dusters — kept coiling, here and there, together with crystals. Boxy coats, boxy shoulder bags and to-the-knee dresses had an insouciant ladylike feel, heightened by overtly shiny red lips.

The bad taste/good taste opposition is a familiar one in fashion. Miuccia Prada was there first, of course. Today, Henry added his voice and it has a charming, fresh sound.