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Background:
Paris Couture Week has come to a close, and Tim Blanks and Imran Amed sat down for their seasonal review of all the most important collections — from Schiaparelli to Armani, the standout looks, and, of course, the designers who brought them to life.
They also discuss the significance of Dries Van Noten’s final collection, which was the most important moment during the menswear shows, and how the brand will take things forward now that Dries is stepping back.
“Alain Gossuin, the first model on the catwalk, was the first model in Dries’ first show. They had to dig for those models. They had to really get out there and find all these people and it was spectacular. All of that was very emotional, but I think Dries really kept the lid on it with the way that he came out at the end and waved as if to say, ‘maybe I’ll be back soon.’”
Key Insights:
- Down to the way the models moved, Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli was a cinematic spectacle, merging traditional haute couture craftsmanship with futuristic design elements. “When [the models] stared at you it was challenging. They weren’t staring at you to welcome you into their world. They were imperious. It’s quite piercing but it was so deliberate that it felt like a different element in the show,” shared Blanks.
- In light of Virginie Viard’s departure, there is now a significant opportunity for change at Chanel. “If they want to take a chance on change, it’s an amazing time to do that. Chanel is codes — and whoever goes in there has to understand those codes — but there’s stuff you can do with those codes,” remarked Blanks.
- At Gaultier, Nicolas di Felice’s interpretation of the French house left a lasting impression. “The intensity of the audience’s engagement with him was so genuine you could see the future,” said Blanks. “He’s quietly created an authentically cultivated real sense of goodwill amongst people. I think people in the industry are really rooting for him.”
Additional Resources:
- Couture Day One: Americans in Paris: What does it mean that Daniel Roseberry and Thom Browne are offering the most stimulating takes on haute couture?
- Couture’s Cross-Generational Masterclass: The name on the door says Balenciaga, Gaultier, Armani... but that’s not the whole story.
- Chanel and Dior’s Haute Couture Loses Heat: No fireworks from the world’s most famous fashion brands, writes Tim Blanks.
