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EU Moves Closer to Putting a Waste Tax on Fashion

Brands and retailers will be required to cover the costs of collecting, sorting and recycling old clothes.
sed and new sport shoes are loaded onto the conveyor belt to be recycled.
The EU is moving closer to making brands and retailers cover the costs of collecting, sorting and recycling old clothes. (Michel Porro/Getty Images)

The EU agreed a deal Tuesday on new rules that will make big fashion companies pay to clean up clothing waste.

The deal between the European Union’s Parliament and Council requires all EU countries to establish Extended Producer Responsibility schemes, making companies producing and selling textiles responsible for covering the costs of collecting, sorting and recycling them at the end of their life. The schemes would come into effect within 30 months of the directive.

The EPR fees will apply to all retailers, including e-commerce platforms based outside Europe.

Negotiators pointedly took aim at the fast fashion sector, noting that ultra-fast-fashion models should be considered when deterring the size of contributions to EPR schemes.

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The deal still requires final approval from the European Parliament and Council, but is expected to move forward.

Learn more:

Can Fashion’s Multi-Million-Tonne Trash Problem Be Controlled?

Regulators are trying to crackdown on the pollution caused by throwaway fashion. But ensuring old clothes aren’t treated as trash is trickier than it seems.

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