This Week: One Big Debut at Paris Fashion Week

In an era of rapid designer turnover at major European luxury houses, Paris Fashion Week typically features multiple creative director debuts. This time there’s just one, but it’s big.

The most hotly-anticipated show of the season will be former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Valentino on Sunday, Sept. 29. While designers often build suspense by shrouding their debuts in mystery, Michele dropped over 260 pre-collection images in June.

BoF luxury editor Robert Williams wrote at the time: “Michele interspersed hallmarks of the brand’s intensely pretty, romantic identity — like pleated, tea-length skirts and ultra-classic pocketbooks — with decadent touches associated with his own aesthetic: cascading ruffles, (faux) fur trim, retro sunglasses and metallic or jewel-tone details.” The internet struggled to see that the collection was very Valentino when it felt so Michele, too. (Valentino was a key reference throughout his Gucci era).

How Michele’s collection is received matters, but what the brand does with it in the coming months matters even more. Valentino owner Mayhoola is counting on Michele to accelerate growth at the brand, which struggled to translate predecessor Pierpaolo Piccioli’s dreamy couture into a more commercial offering. Bridging the divide between runway fantasy and retail reality was of course Michele’s forte at Gucci, though much has changed since he left that brand in 2022.

Elsewhere in Paris, Chemena Kamali shows her second collection for Chloé on Sept. 26, and Seán McGirr shows his second collection for Alexander McQueen on Sept. 28. Chanel, still without a creative director, will show at the Grand Palais on Oct. 1, while we’ll have to wait longer to see Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin, as well as Sarah Burton’s for Givenchy.

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