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Samuel Ross’ Next Move: A Line ‘Engineered by Zara’

After exiting his A-Cold-Wall brand last year, the Virgil Abloh protégé is the latest designer to ink a deal with the Spanish fast fashion giant, widening access to his new SR_A menswear vision.
Samuel Ross
The collection will feature “functional, refined garments” that reflect the “maturity” of the menswear market since Ross launched A Cold Wall in 2015. (Gabriel Moses)

It’s been a while since shoppers have been able to get their hands on fashion designed by shape-shifting creative director Samuel Ross, the Virgil Abloh protégé who founded and then exited the pioneering British luxury streetwear label A-Cold-Wall.

That’s about to change.

After selling his stake in A-Cold-Wall to long-time partner Tomorrow Ltd in February, Ross took a step back from fashion, predominantly working on artistic projects and consulting for Apple’s headphones brand Beats, before returning to the fold with SR_A, a new high-end menswear line, which quietly launched in September with a made-to-order model.

Now, Ross has inked a multi-year partnership with Zara, joining the likes of Stefano Pilati, who launched a collaboration with the Spanish fast fashion giant last month. The deal will widen access to Ross’ vision with bi-annual menswear collections under the label “SR_A Engineered by Zara.”

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The offer will feature “functional, refined garments” that reflect the “maturity” of the menswear market since Ross launched A-Cold-Wall in 2015. “I think we’ve seen a maturity from the audience from the time when there was this high focus on luxury streetwear five or so years ago,” said Ross.

A-Cold-Wall made a name for itself with a high-end streetwear offer infused with commentary on the British class system. As luxury’s fixation with streetwear soared in the late 2010s, it became a fixture at luxury retailers and issued coveted collaborations with the likes of Nike, Dr. Martens and Timberland. But as the trend cycle moved on, the once-hot brand lost heat.

The “SR_A Engineered by Zara” rollout will start early next year with “fashion installations and artistic performances across key cultural cities,” said Ross. “We’re not talking about a short-term cycle where we’re trying to push out a lot of product very quickly. This is a mature offering, which will build gradually each year and is reflective of the intelligence of our audience.”

Further Reading

Is Streetwear Still Cool?

Luxury brands may have pivoted away from sneakers, puffer jackets and hoodies, but new brands like Corteiz and Free The Youth are making the case for street culture’s enduring relevance in fashion.

Why Menswear Is Getting a Marketing Refresh

As critics argue that menswear labels’ homogenous marketing style has made for a feeling of boredom and sameness in the sector, start-ups are beginning to invest in imagery that will set them apart from their competitors.

About the author
Daniel-Yaw Miller

Daniel-Yaw Miller is a contributing writer at The Business of Fashion. Miller is a New York based journalist, editor and advisor who specialises in sports, fashion and business.

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