Week in Review | Menswear, Marcelo Burlon, New Staples, Pitti's Peacocks, Stephen Jones, Made in USA

LONDON, United Kingdom — Just as I was about to scurry off to my next fashion week appointment last Sunday morning, an attractive model stepped of the stage at a fashion presentation in London.

“Nice shoes,” remarked the model to a young journalist, standing next to me. “Are they custom made?”

“No, they are from And Other Stories and came with this chunky heel,” responded the flattered young fashion reporter, covering the shows for a fashion magazine and dressed in a leather skirt, graphic printed top and platform shoes.

On the surface, it wasn't a particularly unusual conversation to be heard at fashion week. But this was an exchange between two young men at London: Collections Men: the 26 year-old model George Barnett (also the drummer for British band These New Puritans), modeling a classic blue Dunhill suit, speaking to Tianwei Zhang, a 23 year-old MA fashion journalism student at Central Saint Martins, dressed in an outré Comme des Garçons skirt, printed Kit Neale top, and a pair of size 41 women's shoes from H&M's new retail concept And Other Stories.

“It’s almost like two different worlds,” said Mr Barnett, when asked why he — a straight man, dressed in a classically tailored suit — would be interested in Tianwei’s more daring, sartorial choices. “It looks believable. Some fashion things look too contrived, but he looks natural. I think it’s quite good that he’s pushing the boundaries of what men wear. His shoes look custom-made, as well. I’ve never seen anything like that before.”

Even though they were dressed in clothes that represent opposite ends of the menswear market, their exchange was the kind of a natural conversation about fashion that's become more and more common. Indeed, it’s cool and comfortable for guys to talk about fashion now. And in this one random moment, I witnessed all the elements of a rapidly growing menswear market entering a stage of aesthetic diversification and global expansion, driven by the growth of the Chinese consumer, a growing interest in fashion and style amongst men across the spectrum, and the ‘hi-low’ mix which is now an established part of fashion reality.

As the menswear season, which started in London and moved on to Florence, continues in Milan and Paris, be sure to check out our new Menswear Hub where you will find menswear news and analysis from BoF and around the Web.

Have a great weekend and enjoy our top stories from the week:

No Signs of Slowing in the Global Menswear Market
For over five years now, the growth of the men's fashion market has outpaced that of womenswear. What are the key factors driving this growth and how are brands tapping the opportunity?

How Marcelo Burlon Built County of Milan
BoF columnist Susanna Lau examines how Marcelo Burlon built a budding multi-category streetwear business based on authenticity, social media and a little help from his friends.

Menswear's New Staples
Well-dressed men have long built their wardrobes around a set of traditional menswear staples ranging from suits to brogues. Now, driven by cultural shifts and a booming menswear market, a new set of essential products has emerged.

Pitti's Peacocks and the Liberation of Men's Style
Street style imagery from Pitti Uomo, capturing the élan and flair of the fair's attendees, has played a major role in liberating men's style and democratising dandyism. BoF reports.

Colin's Column | Stephen Jones and the Grammar of Hats
Colin McDowell sits down with Stephen Jones, one of the world's most celebrated and radical milliners, to discuss the business of making hats.

Op-Ed | Made in the USA is More Hype Than Reality
A resurgence of apparel manufacturing in the United States is highly unlikely due to simple economic realities, argues Edward Hertzman.

And don't forget, check out BoF Weekly, a week in review published with Flipboard and updated every Saturday.