Asexual Attire and a Sense of Déjà Vu at Rick Owens

PARIS, France — When writing about fashion, a season will not go by when the subject of the mixing of masculine and feminine dress will not arise at some point. But at the Rick Owens show on Thursday, that topic of conversion was developed all the way to its almost inevitable conclusion - asexual attire.

First, there was the strong sense of déjà vu in the key roomy onesie outfits. They were like the kissing cousins of those that Owens showed on the menswear catwalk in January. Looking just as fierce on the female street-cast models as it did on the men last month. Each one cut in buttery leathers or precious skins, and worn with flat sneakers that extended all the way up the legs. There is nothing more unisex then a onesie.

Or is there?

Owens offered up as an alternative to those designs, some equally voluminous shift dresses that had the peculiarity of looking like they had almost been constructed back to front. And quite possibly upside down. Arm holes were cut low, forcing the fabric to ride up when the models put their zipper embellished, gloved hands through the openings. And the fabric split open at the side to give an additional sense of volume. At times, these designs skated on the edge of looking closer to a bag lady then a luxury client.

As the show progressed the introduction of some fitted grey designs, that incorporated a panel of pleat at one hip of a dress, or raised seams along the arms of a second skin leather top, were a nice change of pace.

And then Owens challenged the audience once again. He began to fold in the outfits that started the show, back into the lineup of his yet unseen designs.

It was déjà vu all over again.