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NEW YORK, United States — The two columns of text that paired up the same eight words — Energy, Abstraction, Humour, Action, Colour, Instinct, Spontaneous, Fast — were the totality of the show notes for the Proenza Schouler autumn/winter 2014 collection. Designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough faultlessly delivered on all of those fronts.
In an about face from their rather restrained and understated spring/summer show, the duo returned to their wheelhouse for more experimental and thought provoking designs this time around. In this collection, they echoed the repetitive nature of the show note on the catwalk. Giving the receptive fashion crowd volume on volume, pattern on pattern, texture on texture and colour on colour.
The volume came both in the exaggerated round sleeves and nipped-in waists of jackets and coats and in the choice of thicker fabrics, which combined to give the clothing a sculptural shape. Patterns were bold and distinctive and looked to have roots in the Memphis design movement. The designers choosing to pair say a mint green coat in what looked like a vintage linoleum tile pattern, with a turtleneck that brought to mind the cover of a Mead marbled composition book and pants that mimicked wood grain for one of many daring mélanges.
The textural exploration was also impressive. A futuristic whipstitch quilting on panel wrap skirts was clever while the grooved appearance of the wood grain garments and the nubby "linoleum" textiles were cool. And let's not forget the vibrant colour palette combos of cobalt, "black light" green, orange and red which shared the runway with some equally strong black and white pieces.
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Backstage after the show the designers looked almost giddy with delight in the collection they had just unveiled. “After all that black and white and neutral stuff, we wanted to have some energy and colour and fun this time,” said a beaming Hernandez as he greeted an almost never ending lineup of well wishers who had flocked to congratulate the designers.
If this is what the duo can produce when they are in a playful mood, then lets do whatever it takes to keep these two happy.
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