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MILAN, Italy — For those who were in Milan in January to attend the Prada menswear show there was a certain amount of déjà vu about the brand's autumn/winter 2014 womenswear collection on Thursday night. The speckled grey seating, raised catwalk and metal cage scaffolding of the men's show were all still in place. On the runway, Miuccia Prada again combined her two lines, reintroducing some of her menswear alongside her now familiar louche ladies. Also the live music, for a second time, gave a slightly menacing accompaniment to the clothing.
The show was cohesive and clear from the pieces that Prada scattered in her menswear show last month. The leather elastic-waisted dresses grew into roomy silk slip dresses, in both bold opaque shades and naughty see-through alternatives. The colourful fur boas morphed into long haired shearling seams on statement coats. And the tops that spliced translucent fabrics with knitwear, to give hard edge definition on some of Prada’s womens designs from January, transformed into dresses, harnessed by bands of metallic leather, or artsy 70s wallpaper motif prints.
The models, in their wedge-heel boots and chain link strap boxy bags, wore the clothing with an aloof attitude. One part frustrated bourgeoisie housewife, one part subversive street walker. If Belle du Jour was remade today these clothes would be all the lead actress would need to wear.
This collection felt like a continuation of Prada’s life long exploration of sensuality and subjugation. Her sartorial offerings push her fans to question their limits. She tests their boundaries (of taste, of shape, of texture) to see just how far they will go. It will be interesting to see exactly who will follow her next season. Which powerful women will dare to wear Prada?
