The Case for Lab-Grown Hair Extensions

LONDON — On Wednesday, British beauty brand Ruka unveiled a new invention it says will revolutionise the world of styling: next-generation lab-grown hair.

While many companies — including Ruka — have offered synthetic hair for years, Ruka’s new debut, Synths 2, is a more advanced and sophisticated iteration. Made from collagen protein fibres, and produced in Japan, founder Varaidzo Tendai Moyo says it will provide customers with a safer alternative to other synthetic wigs, weaves and extensions. Moyo said it more closely mirrors the look and feel of human hair, with fewer of the environmental costs or ethical issues associated with synthetic hair production and human hair sourcing respectively.

“We wanted to show the industry that we don’t have to compromise [health or performance],” said Moyo. “There’s a lot of fear-mongering when it comes to products for Black women. [We’re told] they’re all bad, but what do we do next?”

An upgrade to its original collagen-fibre based product, Synths 1, the new iteration is also biodegradable, hypoallergenic and dyeable. Its launch is a timely one. From chemical relaxers to synthetic hair extensions, safety concerns around hair products targeted at Black women are continuing to mount. Researchers in the US found that some popular hair extensions and braiding products contain trace levels of carcinogens, acetone and heavy metals. While experts say more research is needed to assess the risk of harm to wearers, the 2025 study by Consumer Reports sparked outrage within the Black community. In 2023, over 100 lawsuits were filed in the US against hair relaxer companies alleging that the products could cause serious health issues such as cancer and fibroids.

But despite headlines around health concerns, hair extension companies have struggled to scale, and the market remains dominated by big players like Kanekalon and Solpia Group, owner of popular braiding hair X-Pression. Rad Swan, founded by influencer Freddie Harrel, launched in 2018 but closed in 2023; plant-sourced hair extension brand Nourie also closed its doors in 2024; and Parfait Hair, an AI-powered hair brand that sold tailor-made human hair wigs, went on hiatus earlier this year. Despite receiving millions from investors, these companies struggled to overcome logistical and supply chain challenges.

Some critics also argue that there’s still a long way to go before plant-made and lab-made hair products can be used en masse. There’s also regulatory loopholes that mean brands in key markets like the US and Europe are currently not obligated to meet cosmetic-grade safety standards, as extensions are not classified as cosmetics nor textiles.

Ruka, which launched in 2021 and has raised nearly $10 million to date, is hoping to overcome these odds by ratcheting up distribution to reach more customers, and also focusing on education. Alongside the new synthetic hair, it unveiled a report, titled The Synth Shift, delving further into the safety concerns around synthetic hair extensions. There’s all to play for: the global wigs and extensions market is expected to reach $11.9 billion by 2029, according to a 2024 report from research and consulting firm Arizton.

For Ruka, which was honoured with the Breakthrough Positive Impact Award at The Global Beauty Awards at The Business of Fashion Global Beauty Forum in June, developing better alternatives is its core mission. Getting that message far and wide may be harder.

Finding the Right Alternative Fibre

Much like firms producing lab-grown diamonds, companies innovating in the space have two central challenges: firstly, they must create the material. Then, they must convince customers of its superior quality.

“I think the report will gear the audience and the industry towards having the conversation around what is fibre safety for the future, not just what is hair safety for the future,” said Moyo, adding that human hair is unscalable, expensive, and traceability is poor. Some manufacturers use other fibres, such as animal hair, to bulk out bundles.

While synthetic fibres are more affordable and easier to produce, much of the current offering exposes consumers’ scalp to toxins, can irritate the skin and is prone to tangling said Moyo. While research into the harmful effects of synthetic hair is still nascent, customers are becoming more mindful of their purchases, looking to minimise harm as much as possible, and often erring on the side of caution.

Moyo also said its research, conducted with the University of Manchester and the University of Newcastle, also exposed that some “plant-made” synthetic hair alternatives purported to be safer due to their natural origins, released harmful compounds when tested by researchers.

Instead, the team opted for a protein fibre, which is similar to the keratin found in hair that naturally grows from the scalp. Unlike some of the plant-made alternatives tested, once heat was applied, Ruka’s new fibre released 98 percent water vapour. Meanwhile, other products tested contained higher levels of solvents, as well as other potentially harmful ingredients such as phenol, toluene and benzene, the Ruka report found.

Scaling up for Good

The potential upside is lucrative. In the UK alone, the hair extensions market is expected to reach $347 million by 2026, with 76 percent of consumers surveyed by Ruka saying they typically wear synthetic hair extensions, braids or wigs.

To make a wider impact, Ruka will need to expand its retail footprint. In addition to its e-commerce store and growing business-to-business sales, it’s currently stocked at upmarket London department store Selfridges. Moyo is eager to add popular retailers like British retailer Boots and LVMH-owned beauty giant Sephora to its portfolio. “I absolutely believe [in] accessibility. How we tackle that is by being in mainstream retailers and salons,” she said, a move that she believes will increase the volume of consumers accessing the brand.

There’s also economies of scale to consider, said James E. Rogers, director of food and product safety, research and testing at Consumer Reports. He added that “the price point for the alternative products is quite a bit higher, [than] using human hair.” Ruka hair is priced at £20 (approximately $27) per pack; customers typically use two to four packs, depending on the desired hairstyle and length. The latest fibre takes approximately three months to produce.

The rise of health-conscious customers means shoppers are seeking transparency from brands. But, with so little information on the harmful substances found in synthetic hair, many will be slow to embrace synthetic fibres.

Moyo has turned her attention to its next innovation, Synths 3, which is currently in the works, which she says will allow the collagen to retain its shape like human hair, making styles longer-lasting.

Aside from aesthetic improvements, the objective is to fix a broken system, said Moyo. “This industry should be better, and it can,” she said.

Want to dive deeper into an insight from this article? Check out The Brain of Fashion, BoF’s new generative AI tool where you can unlock BoF’s beauty archive with a single question.

Sign up to The Business of Beauty newsletter, your complimentary, must-read source for the day’s most important beauty and wellness news and analysis.